The Best Mechanical Watches For Every Budget & Style (2024)

In the world of wristwatches, there are two overarching watch styles that cleave the category in two. And they’re separated by their movement type — the mechanism by which these watches keep time. The first and most popular is quartz, which works by feeding an electrical current through a quartz crystal via a watch battery and uses the vibrations of that crystal to keep time.

The second, and the one we’re concerned with today, is mechanical. Widely considered the better of the two for their craftsmanship and non-reliance on battery power, mechanical watches utilize a clockwork mechanism hinging on a mainspring — most often either manually wound or automatic self-winding — to keep time. While quartz watches are relatively inexpensive and readily available, any watch collector or horological fanatic worth his salt should own, at the very least, one mechanical watch. Lucky for you we’ve put together a collection of the best that are available now.

Manual vs. Automatic

As previously mentioned, the larger mechanical watch category can actually be separated again into two smaller parts: manual and automatic. Manual watches, as the name suggests, require periodic winding by hand — usually meaning the crown must be turned to wind the internal springs of the timepiece so that it will keep ticking. Alternatively, automatic watches skip this step entirely — most often by using the kinetic energy produced by the wearer to wind their internal springs. This means that if the user wears their watches regularly or uses a kinetic storage device (a watch winder), these watches will keep right on ticking forever. Automatic mechanical watches are more widely available and often preferred for their convenience. Still, manual watches offer a level of craftsmanship and boast a historical significance that many watch aficionados prefer.

What to look for in mechanical watches

Price: We don’t know what your bank account or budget looks like, so we’ve provided you with timepieces across all price points.

Size: The size of your watch will be a personal preference. If you have smaller wrists, opt for something 40mm and under. However, certain watch types will determine the watch’s size as well. For instance, divers tend to be much bigger.

Case: Stainless steel is the most common choice here for its durability and affordability, but mechanical watches can also be made of titanium, which will be lighter in weight, or ceramic, which will be more scratch-resistant.

Movement: Since these are all mechanical movements, they will be some sort of automatic or manually-wound mechanism, but typically the former. As such, look for elements such as precision (i.e., time displacement per day) and power reserve, meaning how long it will stay ticking when fully powered.

are mechanical watches more accurate?

When it comes to a watch’s accuracy, even the most expensive options won’t be as spot-on as a cheap quartz watch. Most serious watch collectors aren’t wearing the same timepiece every day and expect that they will need to wind or set each watch before taking it out for the day. Simply put, mechanical watches are more about the ingenuity behind the little machines hidden within them than they are about accuracy. If you’re concerned with that, then just go for a smartwatch.

Hamilton Khaki Field Watch

Debuting in 2017, Hamilton’s Khaki Field Watch was a way for the Pennsylvania-based watchmaker to bring its iconic World War II history and its ’70s-era GG-W-113 field watch to the masses. Now a legend in the category for its toughness, tactical mentality, and fair price point, the 38mm automatic watch presents itself with a matte steel case, a comfortable NATO strap, triangle indices, and a 24-hour military dial. The accessible dimensions also allow this watch to wear on your wrist really well without becoming a nuisance on your outdoor adventures.

For a deeper dive, read our review for the Hamilton Khaki Field Watch.

Size: 38mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

Tissot has a long history of watchmaking that touches on every end of the spectrum. But one of their best watches is this dressed-up PRX Powermatic 80. Powered by its namesake automatic movement, which boasts 80 hours of power reserve and is viewed through the caseback, the 40mm timepiece is very much redolent of the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet (featured later on this list) with its low profile, tapisserie dial pattern, and integrated bracelet. Made from 316L stainless steel, the case shape takes inspiration from Tissot’s own watches from the ’70s.

For a deeper dive, read our review for the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80.

Size: 40mm
Case: 316L Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Junghans Max Bill Automatic Watch

The Junghans Max Bill series of watches are some of the most lauded Bauhaus-inspired minimalist timepieces around. And this version, the automatic mechanical, is amongst the best therein. Interestingly, though its dial is abundant in its markings — including both 12-hour markers, as well as 60-minute indices — it still manages to have a clean and uncluttered design. It’s also powered by a 38-hour automatic movement, has a stainless steel case, and comes with a gorgeous and simple leather strap.

Size: 38mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT

Though not technically a ‘Sumo’ Seiko, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Reinterpretation GMT shares quite a bit with its highly sought-after brethren — including its (subtle, thanks to the large bezel) turtle-shaped stainless steel case and offset crown. It also features a reliable automatic movement, a steel link band, built-in magnetic resistance, and a 200m water-resistance rating. Oh yeah, and there’s a GMT function as well with a fourth hand to track a second time zone. Unlike the non-GMT version, this one is a bit bulkier and has a decidedly sportier aesthetic.

Size: 42mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Longines Spirit Zulu Time

In 1908, Longines made a pocket watch that could show dual time zones. Since then, the Swiss brand has been a favorite of pilots and aviators alike. Last year, the watchmaker paid tribute to its history, especially during the heyday of aviation in the mid-century, with the Spirit Zulu Time GMT watch. A dressier option with some beautiful design cues and color options, the timepiece is a “true” GMT, which means you can adjust the GMT hand without disrupting the time. If history and handsomeness are on your watch docket, go no further.

For a deeper dive, read our review of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Watch.

Size: 42mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Tudor Black Bay Dive Watch

One of the most iconic dive watches anywhere, Tudor’s Black Bay distills a whopping sixty years of diving experience into a single, stunning timepiece. This particular example features a 41mm stainless steel case complete with a striking red dive timer bezel, a black dial with luminous markings, a steel link band, a domed sapphire crystal, and more. It also boasts 200m water resistance and a screw-down crown to keep it safe both during normal usage and in actual dives. Of course, if you’re just looking for a handsome timekeeper to add to your wardrobe, it still fits the bill in spades.

Size: 41mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph Watch

The very first dive watch Oris ever produced came out back in 1965. And the aptly-named Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph takes all 5+ decades of experience building ocean-going timepieces and distills them into a single, gorgeous, reliable timepiece that would look superb on any wrist or added to any collection. Furthermore, while this mechanical watch features a stainless steel case, the bezel is marked by a bronze-finished edge for a bit of stylish contrast. Furthermore, it also contains an automatic movement, a sapphire crystal, and a Swiss-made automatic movement.

Size: 43mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA467 Watch

Possibly the last word in elegance when it comes to Japanese watchmaking, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA467 is an absolutely spectacular mechanical watch. Its case is crafted from stainless steel, the timepiece features a simple and easy-to-read power indicator, it has an understated, high-contrast dial design, and it’s sized at 40mm so its beauty won’t get buried on your wrist. It also boasts a proprietary Spring Drive movement that’s powered on the mainspring alone and allows the second hand to glide by. For those with an appreciation for Japanese precision, this is one of the most exceptional watches currently available — mechanical or otherwise.

For a deeper dive, read our review of the Grand Seiko SBGA467.

Size: 40mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Spring Drive

Bell & Ross BR-05 Watch

Unforgettable to anyone who’s seen it, the Bell & Ross BR-05 capitalizes on the brand’s iconic square case shape but pares it into a much more toned-down, dressed-up, sleek timepiece. On top of its bold dial markers, it also features a subtle date window, luminous indices, a 40mm stainless steel case with a matching band, an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and — most importantly — an automatic movement powering it all. If this is a sign of things to come from Bell & Ross, we can’t wait to see more.

Size: 40mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX

IWC is one of the five original makers of the World War II-era Flieger watch and still makes some of the most stunning pilot’s watches today. But with Mark XX of its renowned Pilot’s Watch, the Schaffhausen-based luxury brand makes a tool that goes beyond aesthetic. Actually useful for flyboys today, the 40mm timepiece sports a stainless steel case, a dial that favors visibility with its hands and markers, a sapphire crystal that will remain secure against displacement if the air pressure should drop mid-flight, and a soft-iron inner case that protects the in-house automatic caliber from magnetic forces.

For a deeper dive, read our review of the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX.

Size: 40mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Panerai Luminor Logo

If big, bold timepieces are more your speed, you might find an interest in Panerai’s Luminor Logo. And that goes double if your interests also lie in horological traditions, as this hefty wristwatch is powered by an in-house hand-wound mechanical movement. But don’t worry — you won’t have to be constantly winding this one, as it features a 3-day power reserve to make things a bit simpler. It also features an anti-shock housing, a shielded crown, a durable stainless steel case, and a handsome vintage-style leather strap with beige stitching.

Size: 44mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Manual

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional

As the favored brand of both James Bond and NASA, Omega has quite a few mechanical watch offerings worth their weight in gold. But we’re fairly partial to one of their most iconic offerings (and one of watchmaking’s most iconic in general), the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. The watch’s history includes accompanying manned missions to the Moon and is still a sight to behold at “just” $6,600. This particular one, dressed up in black, is part of the brand’s overhaul of the flagship line in 2021, which now sports a METAS-certified Master Chronometer co-axial chronograph movement and some stylistic updates. You can’t really go wrong with an Omega, but this mechanical one is all the more special.

Size: 42mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Watch

You might recognize the TAG Heuer Monaco as the watch favored by the likes of the ‘King of Cool,’ Steve McQueen — or at least you recognize it as the watch he wore in his Le Mans automotive movie. That paired with this watch’s rich racing history makes it a favorite in the automotive world by young and old alike. And with the recent revealing of a number of celebratory editions, it’s never been easier to get the Monaco that suits your style best. Of course, we’re partial to this one with its automatic movement, iconic squared case, blue dial, white and red markings, and its contrasting sub-dials. For car lovers, there’s probably not a better historically significant watch around.

Size: 39mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic

Rolex GMT-Master II Watch

As is the case with most “best of” watch guides, this list is not complete without the appearance of an appropriate Rolex timepiece. And when it comes to mechanical watches, their automatic GMT-Master II is nothing shy of legendary. This particular edition came out a few years back and includes a construction of Oystersteel — both the case and bracelet — a brand-spanking-new 3285 caliber in-house movement (with a 70-hour power reserve), the ability to tell the time in dual timezones at once, an iconic rotating two-tone bezel, and a signature magnified date window at the 3 o’clock position. If you’re going to get a Rolex (and you should), you definitely can’t go wrong with this one.

Size: 40mm
Case: Oystersteel
Movement: Automatic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watch

Though clearly an extremely opulent timepiece affordable only to those with a tremendous amount of disposable income, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch is no less worth its seemingly exorbitant price both for its overall quality of construction and craftsmanship, as well as its iconic nature and timekeeping precision. This angular, self-winding, stainless steel watch also comes with a unique integrated link bracelet, a crystal-clear sapphire window, and — if this basic version doesn’t quite fit your needs — it has a full suite of siblings to choose from ranging from complex chronographs, to moonphase watches, to skeletonized dials, and more.

Size: 41mm
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Automatic